Le Fanfare, Greenpoint | Where to Eat

There are those places that do always execute their mission perfectly, simply, consistently, and flawlessly, and somehow without much…. well, fanfare.   This gem of a restaurant located in NoGreePo (yep, that’s North Greenpoint. I’ve renamed the neighborhood) is the lovechild of three Sardinian natives who have created a menu and experience that is reflective of their homeland. Naturally seductive, deceptively simple, and an experience that ignites all of your senses, it’s like a tiny island paradise that you don’t want anyone to find out about, yet you find yourself bringing up again and again in social settings.   

Stepping into this Italian outpost on Manhattan Avenue immediately gave me that feeling of walking into a chic yet locale cafe anywhere in Europe. I wanted to feel less like a newcomer and more like I belonged in this stunning, charming space; the chic, modernist interior, the casualness of communal farm tables, and the charming little half-moon bar were beckoning to me.    I understood immediately why I’d heard this place was perfect for special occasions, and then found myself coming up with any occasion in my head to return- my upcoming half-birthday (are quarter birthdays a thing?), the half- and whole-birthdays of people I know without them being present, sunny days, mostly sunny days, hours that I think could make a little happier, or just running out of wine at my apartment.     

After sitting at the bar for a while, I noticed that the staff at Le Fanfare greet most customers by name, offering them a hug and a genuine smile before catching up on where the conversation last left off. It was clear that I wasn’t the only one coming up with any excuse to return.  

I learned that part of this feeling of community is because the staff there, most of whom have walked the floor or for over a year (which, in NYC restaurant years is basically a decade), work hard to make you feel right at home, while also never missing a beat with service. If you’re lucky enough to get a seat at the marble bar on a particularly busy night, you’ll observe the delicate dance that a family of people have been engaging in nightly for months on end, together – the blind pass-off of a dirty plate, the sharp knife that appears just seconds before your hanger steak lands, how your wine glass never seems to empty, the mysterious hand that swoops in to decrumb your table while you’re mid-conversation and wondering, from whom was this hand? and how? and the smiles and laughs you see pass between this family that are necessary to keep the whole machine running so flawlessly, night after night.     

What I’m trying to say is, it feels good being here. On top of that, it tastes damn good too. Their Sardinian-inspired menu is built from traditional recipes with a distinctly modern update and painlessly localized sourcing. The magic here is in the details – the roasted vegetables are showered in savory bottarga, the homemade pasta delicately dances upon the plate with sauces that neither overwhelm nor speak softly, the main courses are like the unexpected encore to an already unforgettable performance. 

Although it’s hard to misstep on this menu, but here’s what we feel shouldn’t be missed at Le Fanfare. 

Roasted Asparagus

What can asparagus become that you wouldn’t expect? Showered with a dusting of bottarga, a Sardinian dehydrated fish row that adds a perfectly seafaring salinity, you find that your familiar stem vegetable suddenly tastes exotic. It’s accompanied by a bright 6-minute egg, a bold European move to see such an item as part of a dinner plate that will make you immediately aware that your American taste buds need a bit of a wakeup call. Make sure this is on your table. 

Grilled Octopus

Yeah, yeah, ok. You don’t want to eat something smarter than you. Cool. Have you ever eaten eggs when you’re so hungover you have trouble getting them into your mouth? … I rest my case. Ordering the octopus should not be considered a glory-less surrender by an oceanic creature that has more limbs and perhaps synapses-per-minute than you do, but instead a very worthy homage to this seafaring beast. The post-mortem ceremony for this magnificent creature is a thoughtful marinade, an invigorating blanching, a resplendent grilling, and finally a dirgeless processional to your table. Take. Eat. It would truly be a sin to ignore such a sacred, smart sacrifice.

Spaghetti Neri

You know what you don’t do when you’re dining at a restaurant owned by 3 Italian island natives? You don’t skip the dish that is a thoughtful amalgamation of everything I imagine life on Sardinia to be. Savory, seductive, pleasantly fishy and with just and just enough spice to make you feel alive, this is the closest you can get to experiencing Mediterranean life in Brooklyn. And trust me, that’s something you need to make happen. 

Sweet Potato Agnolotti

Think you’ve had your fill of filled pastas? These hand-folded, delicate little pillows will change your mind. The sweetness of the filling plays elegantly along with an earthy saffron oil, nutty cheese and bright citrus zest, and it was my favorite of the pastas here.

Hanger Steak

It’s a bold move to choose a land-grazing dish when tempted to immerse yourself in the marine influence, but consider this a sort of deconstructed surf-and-turf, and thus a must to accompany the octopus and Spaghetti Neri. Arguably, Pat LaFrieda’s cuts can’t disappoint, but this dish is meticulously crafted with a house-concentrated cipollini onion, a black garlic sauce that seems to cut right through your own bullshit, and a marinade that you can only imagine feels like a revitalizing dip in the sea. Don’t skip this, it’s one of the best steaks I’ve had in Brooklyn.

Cannoli (and a capuccino)

I’ve never liked cannoli. It just doesn’t do it for me… until I had this light, handmade dream of a dessert. Gone were my notions of thick, crusty, dense cannoli, and here to stay was the lingering memory of the perfect end to a meal I didn’t think could get any better. At the end of the evening, this is the most sensible option. Just take it from a rather infamous New Yorker; “Leave the gun, take the cannoli.”  (as a note, we weren’t offered any guns.)    

(Stay tuned to read about our exploration of Le Fanfare’s new natural wine program)

Le Fanfare a breath air in a sea of restaurants that are more concentrated on their image than creating an experience. It’s seductive and inviting, familiar and comforting. And it’s a place I’ll find myself coming back to, often. Besides, my quarter birthday is just around the corner…

 

<3L.