I suppose I understand why young(ish) people right now are making an effort to dismiss the consumption of alcohol and would prefer a cozy cup of hot cocoa to an Old Fashioned any day. But, call me old fashioned… and, well, most of my friends as well, because we all appreciate a healthy dose of inebriation, especially around the holidays.
I paid a visit to local spirit aficionado Patrick Dacy, owner of Duke’s Liquor Box in Greenpoint, to get some advice on spirited gift-giving this year, and a little background as to what brought his magical little shop to the neighborhood.
The warmth we felt walking into Duke’s wasn’t just from the hopeful taste of some of these warming spirits, but inevitably from Patrick himself. He’s not just a spirit enthusiast, but also a natural storyteller. The very first question I asked led to a 15-minute explanation that included elements of neighborhood history, post-prohibition spirit distillation, and the true life cycle of farming. Stopping himself, Patrick smiled shyly and said, “Sorry, that was a really long answer to ‘why a spirit shop…’”
However, the richness of his storytelling blended all of the right elements into what would become a cocktail of a story that was just what my writer/bartender heart was seeking.
I’ll shake it up and pour it all out for you below, along with Patrick’s top gift picks this season.
This city is littered with discount liquor stores, but Greenpoint wasn’t always that way. About 10 years ago Patrick realized that there wasn’t anywhere in the neighborhood to get a decent bottle of tequila or mezcal, especially from someone who cared about what you wanted to sip on. He and his wife had a small general store on Franklin Street and were one of only 4 businesses in what is now the neighborhood’s main shopping district. A space became available beside the shop, and at that point they realized that they felt the spirits calling them to use the space to open a different type of liquor store.
This was not only because of the noticeable lack of decent bottles in the neighborhood, but also because the timing felt right. Patrick predicted the wave of craft distillers in the city and country once New York finally opened up its archaic licensing laws. “There’s no reason why distilling laws should have been so prohibitive at the time,” Patrick told us. “Distilling used to be a big part of the farming cycle of life. Farm with grain, turn it into beer, then distill into whiskey, and all the ‘waste’ goes back into the ground to start again.”
His passion for small distilleries and for making a personal connection with makers is evident as soon as you step into his shop. Duke’s Liquor Box is still the only store in the city that refuses to buy from any of the big distributors, and as such, each bottle comes with a story. The result is a well-curated bottle selection and a staff who cares about and believes in the spirits they sell.
A little over a year ago, Duke’s moved to a larger space down the street, and now has expanded their collection to include a backroom with mostly natural wines… which means you can easily find something for everyone on your list there.
So give them a gift that will make your friends completely forget about Dry January. Or, bring a few bottles and stir up some cocktails at your next holiday party. Read on for Patrick’s standout picks for the holidays and stay thirsty, Brooklyn.
Flor del Desierto Sotol
If you’re unfamiliar with the pechuga method of distilling mezcal, the most important thing you need to know is that it is a very celebratory and sacred process, and is believed to infuse the spirit with the soul of an animal. How do they do this? By taking the heart and chest area of said animal (the “pechuga”), hanging it up in the still, and allowing the gas from the spirit pass through it, again and again, during the distilling process. The results are a rich, slightly gamey, and noticeably fuller spirit. Pechugas are commonly poultry but vary depending on what’s available around the farm at the time. This bottle in particular used the pechuga of a rattlesnake, which is just about the most badass thing I’ve ever heard.
Get this bottle for your boldest (and probably non-vegan) friend, and be there when they open it.
Agave Fortaleza
For a shop that has always been known for its collection of Agave, make sure you spend some time in this section. Let Patrick expand your mind beyond salty shots and syrupy margaritas, so that then you can enhance the palette and appreciation of your friends. His favorite choice this season is from Fortaleza, a 3rd generation agave makers from the original Sauza family. Their special winter blend is a delicate mix of anejo and reposado and its rich flavor profile demands it to be sipped on like brandy, not shot or mixed. So tell your friends to grow up in the most delicate way possible, with a bottle of this small-batch agave.
Edinburgh Christmas Blend
It was the three wise men who were said to bring Jesus the gifts of frankincense and myrrh, mystical essential oils fit for a king. And while you may not have anyone on your list who reminds you of Jesus, or really anyone very wholesome at all, you can still be the wisest person at the party with this fancy bottle of Gin. Edinburgh infuses their Christmas blend with frankincense and myrrh, making this warming and aromatic spirit a perfectly seasonal yet unexpected edition to any liquor cabinet. Patrick suggests blending in equal parts with a spice-forward vermouth like La Quintinye, and Sirene Elisir del Lago (in place of Campari) for a bold, spicy, holiday Negroni.
For the holidays, Duke’s will also throw in a free mixing glass and cocktail stirrer with the purchase of three bottles so you can show off your own skills or show your friends the ropes. And as always, they offer free gift wrapping in their ironically iconic Bellevue Meat Market butcher paper.
Need some additional inspiration? Read my guide here to my favorite holiday cocktails, and stir up something nice this season.
Duke’s Liquor Box is located at 114 Franklin St. Follow them here for daily inspiration and stop in for inebriation and more than a few messages-in-a-bottle.
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