barcelona is a city that seems to need no introduction.
(however, i’ve given it one. just below… keep reading.)
i consider barcelona my birthplace, in a certain sense. this is where i was born as a traveler, where i gained my thirst for adventure, where i broke through my fear of leaving home, of being alone- where i sought a deeper understanding of myself and the world beyond virginia and the city responded with an outpouring of beauty, enchantment, wonder, and mystery. i have always felt that in a lot of ways, i owe that city so much- my sense of adventure, my aptitude for urban living, my appreciation for culture beyond my birthplace, my insatiable cravings for jamon. it resides on my heart and in my skin, so no matter where i travel, i’m never far.
and for that, i’ve always wanted to pass along a guide to this enchanting city so that friends can see it through my eyes and my appreciation- so that they might procure more from it than the conspicious coastline, the oft-photographed architecture, the impenetrable soccer empire. that they will see the city as it is and how it will speak to them, with the knowledge that upon leaving, barcelona is something that will never leave them.
this guide began as something i wrote just after studying abroad for my best friend to use on a 5 day visit there. i had been back in the states for nearly 3 months and was having a terrible time assimilating back into the big-state school mentality in southwest virginia- but was suppressing everything i missed about barcelona and my european life in one big drawer in my bedroom that i never once opened. when i finally did, i brought the drawer out into the front yard of our white house and sat for hours, tears in my eyes, writing to her the most painful, sincere, and thorough travel guide i could muster. the original, written in complete stream of consciousness, can be very palpably digested here
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the one i have created here for Brooklyn I’m Trying adventurers includes additional navigation hints, updates for any places that have closed in the past 7 years (RIP TB port, and hot bartender who worked there.) (who by the way i assume is still alive, it’s just the place that died.), and additional discoveries i’ve made on trips over the years.
barcelona is a gift. cherish these words simply as a means to confidently move through the cobblestone streets, making your own discoveries, creating your own memories, and leaving a small part of your soul that you can spare as an offering among all of those to come.
DAY 1
today will be a day of gastronomical and mystical exploration as you consume art, architecture, tapas and wine in the oldest part of the city. bring your appetite for adventure and thirst for wine, your capacity to take in vistas beyond your previous realm of understanding, and some comfortable (yet stylish?) shoes. before you get started, reserve your tickets to the museu picasso– if you don’t do this ahead of time, you won’t get in. and you want to get in.
start your day wandering through the gothic quarter, the ancient mystical neighborhood in barcelona’s center. wander down carrer de la princesa, a street full of shops and restaurants that runs right through the center. stop at can cisa for a glass of rioja and to fill up your wine bota, directly from the barrel. let yourself get lost in the catedral de barcelona, a cathedral marked by its painful history, reverence to animals, and distinctive medieval archways and rooftop. make your way through the narrow cobblestone streets, toward the museu de picasso. before or after, stop into el xampanyet, one of the oldest and most typical catalan tapas bars in the city. try the stuffed mushrooms, and pick up the most important souvenir of your trip- an official JB siquenza wine bota. (this is NOT an option- it’s bee my most loyal travel partner and greatest souvenir to date.)
wander through the streets and into the placa de santa maria where you’ll find a beautiful basilica of the plaza’s patron saint, which is said to have been built as the “people’s church” of barcelona and is truly an icon of the gothic period in catalunya. also in this plaza are two of my favorite tapas bars, always nestled perfectly in the shadows of the majestic basilica. for inventive tapas and indulgent sweets (which also boasts the “best chocolate cake in barcelona” as they say) try bubo. for a more traditional experience, its neighbor al vinya del senyor, offers wines, cavas, and simple tapas (i recommend the smoked salmon, trust me.) if you’re looking to commit to a traditional spanish lunch, one of the most iconic restaurants in the city, head to el 4 gats, former meeting place for artists in the modernist period, with decor inspired by le chat noir in paris. live music daily and real catalan “food of the soul”, plan on having a real 2+ hour spanish lunch here. do not give in to the temptation to siesta post-lunch, way too much to see in this city! after lunch, stop by and marvel at the wondrous palau de music, an art nouveau and architectural masterpiece. wander from there into las ramblas, working your way east toward the sea, navigating through the web of streets dedicated to vendors, shopping, and pick pockets! no kidding, be incredibly vigilant walking through here. stop in any shop that strikes your curiosity, get lost down narrow paths of street peddlers, book stores, small art galleries, and charming boutiques. for food, if you’re still hungry, the attic is one of the only acceptable tourist restaurants in the area, and has a great rooftop, free glass of cava for all weary travelers, and is a peaceful alternative to the packed sidewalk cafes below. save plenty of time to get completely lost wandering around la boqueria, barcelona’s most famous market. visit el quim de la boqueria tapas bar in the back (if you’re lucky enough to find a spot) have some wine while you wander around.
as evening sets in, wind back through the born district, and try to time it so you catch a sunset through the iconic archway on carrer del bisbe. if you feel like having a late dinner, reserve a sofa at la fianna in the gothic quarter and dine like royalty while lounging in a bed beaneath gas-lit chandeliers (hint: don’t wear embarrassing socks). then pop over to small bar, my favorite little nook in the neighborhood. get the lemon and coffee shots to give you a jolt of energy before heading to the iconic harlem jazz club for live music and dancing, any night of the week. wander into la ovella negra if you’re feeling homesick- this unassuming door leads into a massive expat bar full of picnic tables, drunken cultural exchanges, and shitty sangria by the pitcher- and don’t think for a minute that means i hate it.
FOOTNOTES– these are just for your feet!
Can Cisa- Carrer de la Princesa, 14
Museu Picasso- Carrer Montcada, 15-23
Catedral de Barcelona- Pla Seu, 3
El Xampanyet- Carrer de Montcada, 22
Bubo- Carrer de les Caputxes, 6
Al Vinya del Senor- Plaza Sta Maria, 5
El 4 Gats- Carrer de Montsió, 3
Palau de Musica- Carrer de Palau de la Música, 4-6
The Attic- Les Rambles, 120
La Boqueria- Les Rambles, 91
La Fianna- Carrer dels Banys Vells, 15
Small bar- Carrer d’Ataülf, 9
Harlem Jazz Club- Carrer de Comtessa de Sobradiel, 8
La Ovella Negra- Calle de les Sitges, 5
interactive map here.
DAY 2
a day spent exploring barcelona’s coastline via bike. bring your bathing suit or your birthday suit and leave your sense of direction at home (it seems i’ve never actually left home with mine)- today is about getting lost and navigating back by the sea.
start your day at barcelona’s own Arc de Triomf, which just like the city is a bit more colorful, more contemporary, and rough around the edges than its parisian friend’s. slip over to Happy Bike Rentals to rent bikes for the day. from there bike straight into the Parc de la Ciutadella, which boasts barcelona’s parliament, a beautiful fountain (that yours truly may or may not have a significant piece of), and plenty of space to lounge and relax. there’s also a Zoo with pretty good hot dogs. fyi, the albino gorilla died back in 2004, but you wouldn’t know that based on his countenance being all over the city and the zoo. i spent a little too long searching for him at the zoo, even feeling very confident that i’d spotted him sleeping in his cage (which by the way, is still there. exactly as he left it. dishes in the sink, clothes set out on the bed for the next day and everything). don’t be tricked by this. snowflake resides only in the hearts of the catalunyans. whether you zoo or not, hope on your chariots and head toward the the coast. before you set off, stop in and get some bocadillos to bring with you- i love — for sandwiches (and somehow their donuts are insanely good) or my favorite cafe, El Cafe de la Pompeu, right across from my former universitat, El Pompeu Fabra. when you reach the sea you’ll be at the most touristy area of coastline, the beach of barceloneta, where you find all of the semi-subterranean restaurants that turn into clubs at night and open up right onto the sand. if you must visit one, i recommend Shoko– especially on tuesdays. you’ll also see the iconic two towers with frank gehry’s stunning aluminum fish sculpture. underneath his sculpture is a series of hidden paths and waterfalls. bike through here even though it feels dangerous to weave through all the tourists. from here, follow the boardwalk up the other side and simply continue north, biking up the coast and take in stunning views of the mediterranean. wander into Parc Diagonal Mar and play with all of the music-related jungle gyms. sit on one of the many industrial piers and gaze out over the sea, legs dangling. eat your sandwich.
head straight back down the coast and onward to the Passeig del Colom, passing through in time to catch an iconic sunset over the port, in the silhouette of the sacred Cristobal Colon statue. feeling fancy? bike all the way down the port and head up to the rooftop bar of the W Hotel, right along the mediterranean coast, to take in a caipirinha and some of the best views of the city. wander up avenida del paral.lel to Quimet y Quimet for one of the most authentic and quirkiest catalan tapas experiences in the city. it’s crowded, it’s loud, the wine comes in little juice glasses and the food with little to no explanation. enjoy it. once you have a taste, wander through El Raval neighborhood, Barcelona’s grungy art community. make your way through Mercat Sant Antoni, one of the oldest and most iconic markets in the city. following the Ronda de Sant Antoni up to Barcelona’s Gran Via takes you past the University of Barcelona, the Contemporary Art Museum, and lots of unique shops along the way to keep you distracted. if you’re hungry for dinner, stop into L’Oliva for contemporary Catalan fare and one of my favorite dinner spots in the city. after dinner, wander into Espit Chupitos, one of Barcelona’s many shots bars. choose from hundreds of shots, each a different adventure of sorts- stay away from the monica lewinsky (just take my word for it). from here, wander northeast along Gran Via and east into the gothic quarter to do some bar hopping.
FOOTNOTES, where feet and words finally meet:
Arc de Triomf- Passeig Lluís Companys
Parc Ciutadella Vila Olimpica- Passeig de Picasso, 21
Happy Rental Bikes- Carrer de Roger de Flor, 7
Cafe de la Pompeu- Carrer de Ramon Trias Fargas, 40
Shoko- Passeig Marítim, 36
W Hotel Barcelona- Plaça de la Rosa dels Vents, 1
Quimet y Quimet- Carrer del Poeta Cabanyes, 25
Mercat Sant Antoni- Carrer del Comte d’Urgell
L’Oliva- Gran Via de Les Corts Catalanes, 596
Espit Chupitos- Carrer del Consell de Cent, 268
interactive map here.
DAY 3
a day of elevated exploration- heightened views rich cultural understanding. make sure your bring your camera, a sketch pad, and a sense of bewilderment.
start your day off by making a reservation- Parc Güell is free but entry into any of the iconic areas with the mosaic benches will require money and a reservation.
NOW, let’s set off into the beautiful northern area of the city today. starting with a cafe and croissant (find a place?) in the lovely neighborhood of Gracia, then head north toward Parc Güell. it’s a hike, but it will make the end worth your while. once you’re there, plan to lose yourself for at least two hours wandering through the tunnels and chambers of the creative genius of Gaudi. beyond the iconic mosaic lizard and meandering benches, there are also gnarly rock formations and caves made especially for echoey acoustics where you’re destined to find a didgeridooed busker or two. admire the views, pretend to run into javier bardem, pet the exceptionally well-groomed stray cats that are said to be decedents of Gaudi’s beard.
from there, head to either (or somehow, both) the Parc del Laberint d’Horta if you’re looking for a more natural and relaxing experience, with a challenging, huge cypress maze to wander through. this park is absolutely pristine and offers stunning, unique views of the city and plenty of hidden, romantic spots for a to feast over jamon and vino with a lover. or, head northwest up to the highest point in the city (don’t worry, there’s a funicular)- the antique theme park at Tibidabo and Temple del Sagrat Cor. it’s one of my favorite spots in the city, and equal parts sacred and adventurous. ride the ferris wheel. climb to the top of the winding staircase to view the city beneath the open arms of jesus. eat cotton candy. play human-size chess. now finish your churros y chocolate and get in line for the funicular, we have places to see! at the base of the funicular (how many more times can i say that word?) you’ll find my favorite spot in the city to have a glass of wine- i hope you catch it at sunset. Mirablau, which was built into the side of a mountain and consists primarily of one huge glass window, it’s the perfect place to relax after a day of hiking. if you want to stay here, the discoteca is just a treacherous staircase down the mountain, completely open-air, and features fantastic djs. BUT, i’d encourage you to continue on… we have some eating and drinking to do. head south back into the Gracia neighborhood to grab a quick bite at Flash Flash Tortilleria, a simple tapas bar offering way too many varieties of Spain’s sacred tortilla (need an explanation? ah, here comes one now…) or head to Paco Meralgo for more formal tapas and excellent seafood. grab a drink at the stunning Hotel Casa Fuster and find yourself transported into that scene from vicky christina barcelona. wander down Carrer Verdi for tapas, drinks, dancing, and culture. if you’re looking to burn the midnight oil, Sutton is one of the most famous discotecas in the city. if you have any issues getting in, act like you know Richard, the very distinguished looking gentleman at the door. he’d rather let you in than admit he doesn’t remember you- trust me.
FOOTNOTES??! more like- addresses, am i right?
Parc Guell- Carrer d’Olot, s/n, 08024
Parc del Laberint d’Horta- Pg. Castanyers, 1
Tibidabo- Tibidabo, 08035
Templo del Sagrat Cor- just go to the top of the hill. can’t miss it.
Mirablau- Calle Manuel Arnús, 2
Flash Flash Tortilleria- Carrer de la Granada del Penedès, 25
Paco Meralgo- Carrer de Muntaner, 171
Hotel Casa Fuster (Passeig de Gràcia, 132,)
Sutton- Calle Tuset, 13
interactive map here.
DAY 4
ah, the modernist and historical soul of the city- let’s take it all in today. holding hands.
today don’t leave the house without- a porous mind or cerebral sponge, a sketch pad, a sense of wonderment, and those goddamn comfortable (yet stylish) shoes.
start your day making some reservations, again- you’ll be visiting two of the Gaudi houses (Casa Mila and Casa Battlo) and Sagrada Familia today, it might be a good idea to choose which ones you want to pay to enter and spend some time in. of the two houses, i recommend Casa Mila (aka La Pedrera). Sagrada Familia is amazing inside and out, and worth the money if you want to enter but you won’t be let down observing from the exterior.
you’ve already had a bit of a taste of gaudi with parc guell, but to truly get in the mindset of him you need to know a few things- he never made plans for his projects, preferring to construct them from a consciousness style of creation, allowing himself and the observer never to be inhibited by any mental or physical boundaries (arguably, why sagrada familia is still unfinished). he insisted on incorporating a strong influence of nature into all of his creations, which was something most modernists directly ignored- making him a pioneer in this movement and also one who couldn’t be defined by or associated with his peers. and he was unabashedly proud of his Catalan heritage.
on your way to Gaudi’s masterpiece, see his undeniable influence in the Hospital de Sant Pau, located in the northeast area of l’eixample region. part of the ruta de modernisme and designed by catalan modernist Lluís Domènech i Montaner, it’s still a functioning hospital and a modernist masterpiece.
if you happen to be in the neighborhood on a wednesday, book a tour at the historic Estrella Damm factory, barcelona’s regional beer since 1876. from there walk southwest to marvel at Gaudi’s yet to be finished masterpiece, la Sagrada Familia. it’s worth it to pay to enter- the stained glass, tall towers, and view into the limitless and nonlinear paths of his mind are impossible to comprehend but palpable to embrace from the interior. from there walk south west down avenuda diagonal to Casa Battlo and Casa Mila. both within 3 blocks of each other. walking tours through the inside take you through gaudi’s history as an architect, his devotion to catalunya, and his utter creative insanity. embark.
continue down toward the southwest edge of the city to Montjuic, to take in the Palau Nacional, now a stunning museum showcasing an impressive collection of catalan art and sculpture throughout history. have a glass of cava at the top of the steps, listen to the catalan buskers, and feel royal. the museum is definitely worth a visit, but the Font Montjuic fountain show cannot be missed. built for the 1929 barcelona international exposition by carles buigas, his original plan was thought to be too ambitious. the finished product is a flawlessly coordinated show of water, lights, and music. and magic. it plays every half hour during the warmer months. and i love it. so will you. especially when freddy mercury’s “barcelona” plays. hitch a ride up the hill behind the palace to Montjuic, the site of the ancient military fort and the 1992 olympics. wander around, take in views of the city and mediterranean horizon. if you’re there in the summer, catch an outdoor film projected on the side of the fort. schedule and tickets HERE. BYOWAJAL. (bring your own wine and jamon. and lover.)
FOOTNOTES– a debriefing, for your feet:
Hospital de Sant Pau- Carrer de Sant Quintí, 89
Estrella Damm original factory- Carrer del Rosselló, 515
Casa Battlo- Passeig de Gràcia, 43
Casa Mila- Provença, 261-265
Palau Nacional- Parc de Montjuïc, s/n (by the way, s/n means “sin numero” or without number. in other words, just arrive and you’re there. be the number. be the number.)
Font Montjuic- Plaça de Carles Buïgas, 1
interactive map here.
HEY DON’T WORRY– we’re not finished yet.
if you aren’t exhausted yet, explore catalunya beyond it’s celebrated capital.
for day trips outside of the city, drive up through the costa brava and explore hidden beaches, charming medieval towns and fishing villages. Blanes, Cadaques, and Roses are a few not to be missed. pay a visit to the Dali Museum in Figueres, the only museum int he world curated by the actual artist and showcasing only his work- this museum is truly an adventure through his psyche- prepare to have your day transformed into a surreal dreamscape where the colors are still taking submissions, up is down and down is up, and time is fucking relative. i recommend a steady grip on reality and a bocadillo before entering.
OR, head west through the cava region of spain, paying a visit to the vineyard where the very first bottle of cava was made, Codorniu. the tour here is extensive and remarkable, taking you via trolley through the depths of their cellars, finally into the tasting room buried deep beneath the property. the property is beautiful, the cava is crisp- this is absolutely worth the trip.
go forth, hungry travelers.
see you out there.
<3L.
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