Here’s the thing about Taiwan. It’s far away. So far, actually, that the longest straight domestic flight in the world is from New York to Taipei, 16 hours straight. A flight so long that you physically age during it, and, perhaps if you drink a bit too much before the flight, your feet swell up like balloons and you’re unable to fasten your sandals for the next two days while touring around the city. Or so I’ve heard.
Here’s the other thing about Taiwan. Once you taste the flavors there, you become a bit frenzied about having them again. My fervor for pork buns post-Taiwan shamelessly led me to dusty brown-bag laden windows in Chinatown, my need for shabu-shabu had me sinking into grade-pending spots in Flushing, twice. But nothing quite brought me back to the crowded-yet-savory breakfast markets in Taipei, the late-night hot-pots of Kaohsiung the I’m-not-going-to-ask-why-this-is-on-a-stick markets throughout the streets of Taichung.
Until I happened upon an unassuming yet profound victory in Bushwick. Win Son is a hip, unpretentious, and unbelievably savory discovery on Graham Avenue dedicated to purveying the addictive flavors of Taiwan and doing it so well, you’ll have to pinch yourself between savory soup slurps to know you’re still in Brooklyn and that your sandals are still on.
Here’s what not to miss, and how not to miss it, at my favorite find this side of the South China Sea.
Marinated Cucumbers
The better answer for when you feel that i-need-a-salad-in-my-life pull, this saucy, garlicky, cilantro adventure topped with fried scallions is addictive. Order these first. $6
Dou Jiang You Tiao
What I wouldn’t do to have this savory soup as part of my regular morning practice. I first discovered such an experience at a breakfast market in Taipei and have been dreaming of waking to it ever since. It’s only on the Brunch menu and will make you understand every opportunity we aren’t taking in the US with morning soups, or soy milk, or spoons in general. Choose the savory, although I have no doubt the sweet is probably amazing too. $7
Sloppy Bao
Once you get a sense of the flavors of Taiwan from these first two dishes, you’ll be ravenous to have them stronger, better, faster, stronger, and next. The sloppy bao is all of this wrapped up not-neatly in a brave
Pan Griddled Pork Buns
This may seem like overkill considering the insistence upon ordering the sloppy pork bao, but just trust me when I say it’s not. This dish comes with 6 fairly humble buns smothered in fried shallots, green onions, sesame and some magic sauces that you’ll eat so fast you’ll forget being nervous that they’re too hot and also your own name. You’ll forget your own name. $11
All of this, with two of those magical cans of Taiwanese beers, cost us $50. Meaning it was the perfect way to satisfy my tasteful nostalgia for the flavors of the Pacific island while still maintaining my sandal-fastening integrity.
Go. Fast. Because all you are about to do is Win, Son!
159 Graham Ave
Tuesday through Sunday, 5:30-11pm.
Saturday and Sunday for lunch 11-3pm.
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